The Smiling Onion

Vegetarian and Gluten-free Cooking

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Oyster Mushroom & Edamame Tacos

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Pandemic life has caused a lot of us to pick up new hobbies – whether it’s sourdough or zoom ballroom. While my day job keeps me pretty busy (hence the less frequent blog posts), one pandemic activity my husband and I have turned to time and again is taco making. As a result, we’re now complete tortilla snobs – casually making our own tortillas whenever the mood strikes. And the mood strikes often – because my husband is taco OBSESSED.

I’m beginning to share this obsession. There’s something uniquely satisfying about biting into a soft, hot tortilla filled to the brim with whatever savory goodness the day calls for. And you can really put anything in a taco. I’ve used Indian-inspired spiced potatoes topped with grated cheddar and sour cream, leftover tofu scramble with cilantro and fresh tomatoes, simple scrambled eggs with goat cheese and scallions – and of course, one of my favorites – these brussels sprouts tacos with spicy crema and feta. However, I recently came up with a new combo that might just be my new favorite: oyster mushrooms and edamame.

Similar to the brussels sprouts tacos mentioned above, these tacos have very few ingredients but the secret is in the way you cook them. You’ll use a large skillet so that everything browns and develops incredible flavor compounds, resulting in a filling  so good that it’s VERY difficult not to eat it all up before it’s in your tortillas. If you choose to leave these vegan, you won’t miss the cheese. That said, though not imperative, I *do* think a fried egg and a very light sprinkling of feta add to the magic.

If you’re looking for a special something on Valentine’s Day, I highly recommend giving these tacos a try. They are sumptuous and meaty, and super cute to boot! They would be perfect as part of a romantic, small plates style meal (one of my preferred ways to eat!) as they make just enough for one or two servings. Plus, according to the internet, mushrooms are an aphrodisiac, making these tacos even more Valentine’s Day appropriate. (Of course, soy doesn’t exactly fit into the aphrodisiac camp, but we’ll just overlook that tiny detail.) Also – if you’ve never made tortillas before – that’s either a great labor of love you can undertake yourself or a super fun activity to try with your special someone(s).

A few notes about making tortillas:

-There are a million tortilla making recipes. We just use the one on the back of the Organic Masa flour package from Bob’s Red Mill. BUT…we don’t let it sit for an hour, as they suggest. Just knead it until it seems like a good consistency and get pressing already!

-When we were researching tortilla making best practices, we came across a tip for fluffy tortillas: heat your skillet, add a tortilla, and let it sit for just 10 seconds or so. Flip it, cook until the second side is done, and then flip it back onto the first side to finish cooking. I’m pretty sure we got that tip from this page, which also has fantastically detailed instructions that tell you everything you ever wanted to know about tortilla making.

-I don’t mean to imply that you have to make your own tortillas! You can absolutely use store-bought corn tortillas for these tacos and they will be DELICIOUS! Seriously, you don’t even have to put the filling in a taco if you don’t want to – it’s SOOO yummy!

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Turmeric-Carrot Muffins

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Despite my obsession with carrots, carrot cake and carrot muffins have never really done it for me. I’ve always placed them in the “oatmeal raisin” camp, which to me translates as not my jam. Maybe I’m just biased against desserts with raisins? But something about your run-of-the-mill carrot muffin is just not that appealing to me. Yet when the polar vortex hit the other day, so did the baking bug. And I’m now completely sold on carrot muffins.

But – big caveat – these are definitely not your ordinary carrot muffins. There’s no cinnamon and no raisins: instead, I went with fresh turmeric and ginger, a generous dose of sour cream, a hint of cardamom, and a subtle kick from some ground black pepper. They are also less sweet than a typical carrot muffin, making them a fantastic (and not so sugary) breakfast or snack that is delicious warm or cold. So let me rephrase my previous statement: I’m now completely sold on carrots in muffins – as long as there’s turmeric and sour cream in there too. These are definitely going into my muffin rotation!

In addition to the flavor profile, I’m also excited about these muffins because they are completely nut-free. While I normally depend on a small amount of almond flour to add moisture and tenderness to my baked goods, I wanted to create some muffin recipes that don’t use this somewhat polarizing (because of its cost and because not everyone can eat nuts) ingredient. Since it’s the high protein and fat content that makes almond flour such a great ingredient in gluten-free baked goods, those elements are taken care of by the sour cream, eggs, and butter in this recipe. High protein oat and sorghum flour seal the deal, and – along with a teaspoon of binding psyllium – help to create the perfect texture.

So – whether you are offended by or sympathetic to my stance on the “typical” carrot muffin, I do urge you to try this remix. You can even add in some raisins – if you must. (Just make sure to soak them first.)

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Green Bean Chutney

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If I were the subject of one of those desert island thought experiments – you know, where you have to choose things to bring with you – I’m pretty sure my blender would be one of them. (That’s assuming, of course, that this desert island scenario included ingredients for me to put in said blender as well as some sort of electrical power – either run off currents or magic, I’m not fussy.) Why would I choose to bring a blender? Well, first of all, it would probably be hot so I would definitely need to make shakes like this one (yum, salted caramel!) and this leche de tamarindo. Ooh, and this tropical papaya smoothie would definitely help me cool down too. I also wouldn’t know what kind of protein sources would be available and how they would taste, so the ability to make vegan sauces like this creamy garlic staple, this decadent walnut sauce, and this spicy serrano cream would make anything taste delicious. (Hemp seeds would have to go on the list too as they are the BEST vegan sauce base, IMHO.) And, to finally get onto the topic of this post, my blender would also enable me to whip up bright and flavor-packed chutneys like the green bean one detailed here – keeping life fresh and beautiful.

Chutney was actually the middle name of one of my childhood pets, Mango. (Yes, Mango Chutney). No, I did not name him – my parents get credit for that. (Where do you think my love of food comes from?)

Anyway, this green bean chutney floated into my head one day after wondering what to do with the 1/2 pound of green beans I had left. I knew they’d be gone all too soon if I roasted them with balsamic, which is usually my go-to, and I was feeling kind of like a sandwich for dinner but didn’t really have anything to dress it up with and make it pop. So…I steamed some green beans, then whirred them up in my trusty blender with cumin seeds, tamarind paste, a bit of sugar, cilantro, lemon, some cayenne for spice, and some oil to help it blend. Delicious!

Bright, fresh, and tangy – but with some warmth from the cumin – this chutney is so versatile. I first enjoyed it on a sandwich with goat cheese and a fried egg, but it would also be amazing on potatoes, grain bowls, or mixed with a bit of yogurt/sour cream for a creamy sauce. You can also enjoy it by the spoonful, which I did rather too much of that first night. (I mean, gotta scrape out the blender, right?) Luckily, the recipe made a cup so even after binging on it, I had plenty to pack up and store in the fridge – ready to make the next meal pop.

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Spiced Carrot Salad with Fennel & Olives

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I tend to think a lot about food right before bed, probably because my mindless internet browsing of choice involves a lot of food blog scrolling. I’ll admit – it’s not a great habit. I end up having to expend a lot of will power in order to sleep on an empty stomach (which is definitely best for digestion, inflammation, disease prevention, quality of sleep…ugh, pretty much everything.) But I do sometimes get great ideas for what to make the next day!

I saw this salad from Smitten Kitchen during one of my pre-sleep food browsing sessions, and could not get the words “crushed olives” out of my head. I’ll spare you a detailed retelling of my dreams that night, but suffice it to say that the crushed olives made quite an impression on my subconscious. Anyway, I had some fennel stalks and fronds in the fridge (left over from making this lovely white gazpacho) and had been wanting to put them to good use, but – aside from the crushed olives – the rest of the salad didn’t look all that appealing to me. I’m not a fan of orange zest, and not that big on shaved fennel or fennel-centric dishes generally. I also didn’t have any fennel bulb  – just the stalks and fronds. What I did have was carrots! (You probably guessed that already.)

Now, one of my absolute favorite salads ever is Ottolenghi’s Moroccan carrot (which you can find here). So it occurred to me that I could do a sort of variation of that – but with the fronds, stalks, and olives from Smitten Kitchen’s recipe. I knew I wanted to vary up the spice mix a bit and simplify the recipe some as well. I also knew that I wanted to sauté my fronds, rather than leave them raw.

And thus, a perfect late summer/early autumn salad was born. I’m actually amazed that I got it so perfect on the very first try – measurements and all. It’s just the right amount of spice, just the right amount of tang, just the right amount of fennel (which I tend to prefer as an accent, not a centerpiece), and basically just balanced AF. The first night I made it, we ate it by itself for a late dinner.  The next day, we enjoyed it on our balcony with some barely warmed quinoa, simple sautéed chickpeas, and a cold kale and tomato dish. Yum!

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Shredded Brussels Sprouts Pizza with Goat Cheese & Olives

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One of life’s little miracles is looking in your fridge and discovering you have everything you need to make a perfect pizza. While I’m pretty down with most pizza toppings (provided they are vegetarian), there are definitely some pizza sweet spots that result from the right toppings combo. You know – like red pizza with green peppers, black olives, and spinach or spicy tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, and basil. These tried and true topping trinities (say that 10x fast) are just so…pizzalicious.

Well, I’m adding another trinity – or actually “quintity” (not a real word, unfortunately). Shredded brussels, freshly grated parm, kalamatas, goat cheese, and parsley pesto. When I made this for the first time, my husband legit freaked out. I kind of did too. Will you? Let me know in the comments.

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Freestyle Fried “Rice”

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These days, flexibility is key. While I used to be one of those people who would go to four different stores just to find one item, that’s obviously changed. Minimizing our time at the grocery store is important, as is adopting a “no-expectations” attitude when it comes to the items that will be waiting for you there. So, in the spirit of flexibility, I thought it might be nice to share a “recipe” that can be easily customized based on what you have on hand. It’s also comforting, flavorful, easy to make, and leftover-friendly (both in the sense that you can use up veggies or grains that are already cooked AND in the sense that it’s easy to make a LOT of this and eat it over a few days). I’m calling it freestyle fried “rice.”

“Rice” is in quotes because you can use just about any grain. My favorite is actually millet, or a mixture of rice and millet. The only grains you probably want to stay away from are the porridgy ones like teff, amaranth, and oats, as they won’t really give you that fried rice feel and are also strongly-flavored. This dish also works best with leftover (refrigerated) cooked grains, which is one reason I always make more than I need whenever I make a fresh grain as part of dinner. Even if I don’t end up making this freestyle “fried” rice, having a grain already prepped and ready to be reheated in the fridge means one component of a meal is already done!

In the spirit of freestyling, I’ve decided not to use measurements for this. It’s more of a general “how to” recipe that you can make using the guidelines below, your own intuitions, and your taste buds. (FYI, if you are interested in perfecting your cooking intuitions, my sibling, Rafael Natan, is offering sliding scale cooking lessons via Zoom. Rafael will help you use your taste buds and senses to create delicious meals suited to you and what you have available in your kitchen. Check it out!)

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Kabocha & Tofu Stew

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You know what sounds better than braving the New York restaurant scene on Valentine’s Day? Staying in and eating comfort food. And yes, I know that sometimes means nachos or fries or pizza, but with the crazy January we’ve had here in the U.S., I’ve been craving something a bit more nourishing.

After all, Valentine’s Day is about taking time out to appreciate those you love and giving them a little extra care and attention. That could be friends, a partner/partners, or even yourself. So in my book, cooking a nourishing (and incredibly tasty) meal is a great way to celebrate. And if you want to break out the ice-cream or alcohol later in the night, I won’t judge.

This stew will make your apartment smell insanely amazing. First, we fry some tofu with chives and ginger (a meal in itself!), then it gets simmered with kabocha, tamari, thyme, and cumin. Finally, we fold in some kale, add some more seasoning, and pop in some kabocha chunks to bite into (the first ones become part of the stewy sauce!). The result is a velvety, umami-laden sauce with a nice gingery punch, chunks of nutty kabocha and meaty tofu sprinkled throughout, and beautiful, tender greens to add to the love. Serve it with your favorite grain, or enjoy it on its own.

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Brussels Sprouts Tacos

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This is one of those recipes where the ingredients are surprisingly simple – there’s no magic spice mix, exotic herbs, special vinegars, or complex sauce. But the flavors and textures are unreal. So what’s the secret?  I’d say it’s probably the cooking method for the brussels sprouts, which actually happens to be easier than most – no blanching – but which yields an EXTREMELY flavorful result. You’ll be shocked that the only added seasonings are sea salt and chives! Of course, once you have your flavor-packed, browned, crispy brussels, it doesn’t hurt to pile them on top of a corn tortilla, add some toasted pumpkin seeds, a simple crema, a light sprinkle of feta, and a squeeze of lime. The flavors jive so well you’ll want to eat these every day.

I actually created this recipe way back in January, but thought it would be a perfect Cinco de Mayo post. (Yay for planning ahead!) What I didn’t count on, however, was that every time I came across these photos sitting in my Google Drive, I’d want to eat these tacos immediately. So be warned: they are addictive!

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“Pots of Gold” Baked Potatoes with Herbed Sour Cream & Leeks

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Happy St. Paddy’s Day, everyone! If you are wondering how to commemorate the holiday, look no further. I’ve got a simple, St. Paddy’s Day recipe that should fit the bill and would also go great with some Irish beer. Because really, what could be more Irish than potatoes and beer? (Actually, perhaps whiskey, but you can have that for dessert.)

Anyway, for this St. Paddy’s Day, I decided to do a twist on baked potatoes with sour cream. I wanted to keep the simplicity of the dish but also add a lot more fun for your taste buds and a little sprinkle of fancy schmancy just because.  Enter mustard crust, an ooey gooey flavor-packed outside to our little pots of gold. Blending the cream with some parsley and chives also gives the dish a nice brightness of flavor and adds a lovely, St. Paddy’s Day-appropriate green color. Finally, a sweet mustard drizzle (made with your leftover mustard crust mixture) and some sautéed leek greens complete the dish. Think: a lovely rainbow of flavors spiraling out of a little golden nugget, bringing good fortune to your taste buds every time you take a bite. Yum!

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Mesquite Caramel

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Have you heard of mesquite powder? It’s made from the ground pods of mesquite trees and has a wonderfully sweet – yet complex – flavor that is somewhere between vanilla, caramel, and malted milk balls. Delicious in smoothies, hot drinks, ice-creams, and baked goods, mesquite powder is great to have on hand!

A few years back, I decided to try making a caramel using just mesquite and water. The results were exciting. While it wasn’t as sticky as a typical caramel, it was thick and syrupy enough to hit the “caramel neurons” in my brain. (By the way, this is yet to be confirmed by an MRI, but I may have more “caramel neurons” than average.) Plus, this mesquite caramel had two advantages: it was both simpler to make and healthier to eat than a butter and sugar-laden variety.

Before we get too excited, let me just clarify that – while there is no added sugar in mesquite powder since it’s literally just ground up mesquite pods – chemical analysis of the powder does show it to be about 40 percent sucrose. As such, I probably can’t say that this caramel is entirely “sugar-free.” I can say that it is definitely significantly lower in sucrose than your typical table-sugar caramels, however, and has a more unique flavor, to boot. Its high fiber content may also be helpful in preventing blood sugar spikes, though – according to the website linked earlier – more research is needed.

This is the easiest caramel you’ll ever make. You just need mesquite powder, water, a small saucepan, and a spoon. Once the mixture starts to bubble, it’ll be ready in about five minutes. Drizzle it over ice-cream (I know, kind of negates the low sugar aspect), over your morning porridge (one of my favorite ways to eat oatmeal) or enjoy with stewed or baked apples. It’s also a wonderful way to dress up a bowl of cold cereal! Plus, it’ll keep for several days in the fridge and doesn’t harden or solidify, meaning it’s always drizzle-ready.

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