The Smiling Onion

Vegetarian and Gluten-free Cooking

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Giant Veggie Turnover (Grain-Free and Kosher for Passover!)

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I swear that the photos do not do this recipe justice. It wasn’t very photogenic (or needed a better photographer) but it looked strikingly beautiful in real life. So much so that I kept grabbing my phone and taking more pictures of it even after I was technically “done” with the shoot. But there’s much more to this recipe than good looks.

If you are a vegetarian (like me), Passover can be a bit tough. Potato kugels are usually the center piece and then come lots and lots of sides. Not that there is anything wrong with that – I love sides – but sometimes you want something a bit more forward at the center of your seder.

Enter this giant veggie turnover. It’s stuffed to the brim with potatoes, kale, and cabbage seasoned with lots of paprika and dill. The turnover crust is satisfyingly savory, sweet, and bready with a knish-like quality that will surprise you. There’s plenty of extra filling to pile on top or style individual plates with, and it’s super fun to cut off slices for all your guests. And – to add some extra Passover flair – a horseradish-lemon dressing gets drizzled on top.

When I tasted it, I was pretty ecstatic. Who knew plantains could taste so Jewish? And the filling – yum! And the horseradish…oh, man. This was going to be a seder to remember.

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Mesquite Caramel

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Have you heard of mesquite powder? It’s made from the ground pods of mesquite trees and has a wonderfully sweet – yet complex – flavor that is somewhere between vanilla, caramel, and malted milk balls. Delicious in smoothies, hot drinks, ice-creams, and baked goods, mesquite powder is great to have on hand!

A few years back, I decided to try making a caramel using just mesquite and water. The results were exciting. While it wasn’t as sticky as a typical caramel, it was thick and syrupy enough to hit the “caramel neurons” in my brain. (By the way, this is yet to be confirmed by an MRI, but I may have more “caramel neurons” than average.) Plus, this mesquite caramel had two advantages: it was both simpler to make and healthier to eat than a butter and sugar-laden variety.

Before we get too excited, let me just clarify that – while there is no added sugar in mesquite powder since it’s literally just ground up mesquite pods – chemical analysis of the powder does show it to be about 40 percent sucrose. As such, I probably can’t say that this caramel is entirely “sugar-free.” I can say that it is definitely significantly lower in sucrose than your typical table-sugar caramels, however, and has a more unique flavor, to boot. Its high fiber content may also be helpful in preventing blood sugar spikes, though – according to the website linked earlier – more research is needed.

This is the easiest caramel you’ll ever make. You just need mesquite powder, water, a small saucepan, and a spoon. Once the mixture starts to bubble, it’ll be ready in about five minutes. Drizzle it over ice-cream (I know, kind of negates the low sugar aspect), over your morning porridge (one of my favorite ways to eat oatmeal) or enjoy with stewed or baked apples. It’s also a wonderful way to dress up a bowl of cold cereal! Plus, it’ll keep for several days in the fridge and doesn’t harden or solidify, meaning it’s always drizzle-ready.

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Easiest, Fluffiest Gluten-Free Pancakes

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Out of all the gluten-free pancakes I’ve eaten (and I’ve eaten my fair share), these probably have a texture closest to your standard white-flour variety. They are neither bready nor gummy, which is a hard balance to get right in the gluten-free pancake world. At the risk of sounding like I’m describing coffee, I would call them “medium-bodied,” by which I mean that they are in the just-right category between very thin and very thick. Best of all, they come together in your blender, contain no sugar or sweetener, and brown up beautifully.

So what’s the secret? A very ripe plantain. This lends the batter a delicious, sweet flavor that makes these beauties enjoyable even without any syrup on top. (For those of you who eat pancakes for the syrup, don’t worry: slathering these with butter and syrup is also a win.) You’ll be blending up your ripe plantain with some whole-grain gluten-free flours (oat and sorghum), baking powder, a bit of oil, a non-dairy milk of your choice (I like almond), and a couple eggs. And that’s all it takes!

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Miso Egg Drop Soup

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This miso egg drop soup is simple to prepare, nourishing, and delicious. At the risk of angering the FDA with these statements (haha), I 100 percent guarantee that it can help you survive the polar vortex, recover from copious amounts of baking (see last week’s post), or fight off the sniffles.

Let’s take a closer look at why:

Kombu & Nori:  Seaweeds are some of the most underrated “superfoods” there are. They are rich in minerals – especially calcium and iodine – and alkalizing to the body, which means they are a great antidote to too much sugar, which is acid-forming. Kombu is also fantastic for digestion.

Miso:  Also alkaline, miso contains beneficial bacteria that can help fight off illness.

Egg:  Eggs are the most bioavailable form of vegetarian protein that exists, meaning they contain protein that is easy for our bodies to metabolize and use.

Carrot:  Rich in minerals and fiber, and – of course – good for the eyes!

So, ready to fuel up for this polar vortex? Let’s do it!

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Miso-Orange Charred Parsnips

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I surrender to you

Warm golden nuggets of joy

Your salty-sweet persona defies satiation

 

Mouthful after mouthful

Consumer and consumed blend together

As your hold on me tightens.

 

I am not fooled by your crispy exterior

Your blackened edges

The parts of you that seem imperfect

 

I’ve tasted your insides and there’s no going back. 

-Rumi (After I gave him one of these parsnips)

Okay, sorry everyone. I’m getting over a cold and it’s making me just a bit loopy. What do we think – better or worse than my carrot pasta inspired ode to Elizabeth Barrett Browning? Should I quite blogging and start a poetry satire company? Granted, the language is a bit modern for Rumi, I guess. Maybe it was actually Neruda who wrote this – I could have gotten confused.

So anyway, these miso crusted parsnips are really good. Miso has been missing from my diet for several years, since I had to remove rice temporarily a little ways back. Thankfully, in the past year or so, I’ve been able to eat it again and haven’t turned back. I’ve been putting it on everything! As soon as the parsnips made it into my shopping cart, I immediately knew I wanted to coat them in miso and roast them. I also knew I would use coconut oil for a rich, buttery flavor and just a bit of freshly-squeezed orange juice for slight acidity and sweetness.

The result? Well, I have to say I agree with Rumi. Or Neruda. These parsnips are awesome.

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Pumpkin Spice Hemp Milk

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Hemp milk is one of my absolute favorite milks. While some might say it’s an acquired taste – and there is definitely something very unique about the flavor that “nutty” doesn’t quite capture – once you get used to it, hemp milk can’t be beat. It’s super nutritious (all those omegas!) AND you can make it without any straining, soaking, or waste. All you have to do is blend up some hemp seeds with some filtered water, add in whatever sweeteners or spices you’d like, and drink up. You do have to blend it for a couple minutes to really get a nice consistency, but this makes it even better: when it comes out of that blender, it’ll be warm, frothy, and altogether beautiful.

You can totally make hemp milk completely plain, and that is actually what I do most often. Since it does get so warm and frothy, I find that I like it without any sweeteners at all. But, since fall is here, why not try it with a bit of pumpkin spice flava?

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Market Cucumbers with Ras El Hanout, Lime, and Mint

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One of the best things about eating in the summer months – especially August – is the sheer bounty of summer produce available. Often, picking the freshest produce you can find and treating it gently yields some of the most delicious eating; as an added benefit, these produce-highlighting dishes are generally simple to prepare. Small plates restaurants in New York LOVE this strategy – they know their customers are suckers for fresh produce that tastes amazing and that diners are willing to shell out the big bucks for what is really just a plate of vegetables with some strategic seasoning and a fancy name.

Now I fall for this just as much as the next person – who doesn’t love veggie-centric, small plates dining? And really, who cares how much effort it took as long as it tastes amazing? But I’m also beginning to be a bit sticker-shocked by some of the small plates (sometimes tiny plates!) and big prices attached to the simplest of dishes. Especially when it’s so easy to create our own delicious, seasonal small plates with a simple trip to the Greenmarket, a bit of creativity, and a subtle hand. The trick here is not to overdo.

It’s imperative, of course, to start with super fresh, sun-kissed, juicy cucumbers straight from the garden, farmstand, or greenmarket. Younger, tender cukes are preferable to older, bigger ones – you don’t want the peels to be super tough. A sprinkle of good quality sea salt helps the cucumbers sing; the ras el hanout (a Morrocan seasoning blend, described in more detail below) gives them that extra special something. Add in a splash of acidity (fresh lime juice) and a bit of very thinly shaved fresh mint and scallion, and you’ve got yourself a complete dish.

So what exactly is ras el hanout, you ask? Well, every blend is slightly different, but it normally consists of warming spices mixed with coriander and turmeric. If you are familiar with garam masala, the flavor is similar, but I would describe ras el hanout as having a more savory quality (less clove and cinnamon heavy). I buy the Frontier brand, which consists of coriander,  turmeric, cardamom, sea salt,  black pepper, clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg. I love it in deviled eggs (for a North African twist), in my morning porridge, or mixed into yogurt and drizzled over a middle-eastern style lettuce wrap. In the cooler months, it’s also great for stews and soups!

Now on to these cucumbers…

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Vegan Summer Bowl with Spicy Serrano Cream

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I have a confession to make: I haven’t spent a lot of time on recipe development this summer. Maybe it’s the rising humidity, two grad school classes squeezed into a one-month summer session, or just pure laziness, but the time I’ve been spending in the kitchen has mostly been focused on throwing together meals for our household. That means no measuring cups, measuring spoons, kitchen scales, or any of the other gadgets that go into actually publishing a recipe for public consumption.

Not deliberately setting out to create recipes, however, often yields fabulous meals that I can then come back to later and make “precise” with said gadgets.  In fact, I have a whole folder of summer “recipes” just waiting to be measured and published! This supremely satisfying summer bowl is at the top of the list, because it was just so darn enjoyable!

How to describe it? All of the components work so nicely together – tender broccoli florets, quinoa, a raw carrot salad with raisins and coconut that jives perfectly with the spicy serrano-cilantro sauce you’ll be drizzling (or drowning) your bowl with, and some simple sautéed tofu for extra protein.  Crunchy, sweet, spicy, tender – this bowl has it all. And just like my vegan winter bowl, you can make any or all of the components ahead of time and assemble your bowl when you are ready to enjoy it, or you can even assemble the bowls within tupperware containers for ready-made, transportable lunches. (Bobby and I devoured our first bowls warm, then assembled the leftovers in two containers and took them for lunch the next day, where we ate them cold. Both ways were delicious.)

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Tangy “Yogurt” Shake with Cardamom, Banana, and Lime (Yogurtless)

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I’m not sure who the audience is for this recipe but I’m quite curious if you’ll love it or hate it. That’s a new one for me, since I normally post recipes that I’m fairly confident will appeal to most of my readers. But hey – where’s the fun in that? Sometimes taking risks yields more interesting results.

Like it did with this shake. Bored with the standard (albeit delicious) shake combos of banana, raw cacao, and various nut butters or the fruiter varieties like this tropical papaya smoothie, I decided to try something weirder. And after the first couple sips, I honestly couldn’t tell if it was good or not. Yet there was something strangely addictive about it. I took another sip, and another. Then it dawned on me. It almost tasted like yogurt…

This realization, along with a tangy, refreshing quality that told my brain to keep drinking, led me to decide that I was going to post this. Because there’s gotta be some poor, probiotic-free person who misses yogurt shakes, right? Maybe? Or maybe there are others like me who are looking for a shake that’s just a bit different?

(By the way, in case you are curious why it tastes like yogurt, my best guess is the creaminess of the frozen banana and hemp seeds combined with the tanginess from the lime juice. The cardamom also emphasizes this yogurt-like quality and is a nice warming counterpart to the tang.) I hope you enjoy it, but I’m not making any promises!

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Blueberry-Fennel Salsa

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Tis the season to eat salsa! And oh, how numerous are the possibilities. I’ve always been one for experimenting with new flavor combinations so when I looked in the fridge and saw some blueberries fresh from the Union Square Greenmarket, along with some jalapeños and cilantro, I immediately thought blueberry salsa.

Now, I’m quite familiar with fruit salsas  – your standard pineapple one, for example, is pretty ubiquitous. But I couldn’t remember a time when I’d eaten a version made with blueberries. I also wasn’t 100 percent sure it would be a success. But I was fairly certain that one ingredient might be the key to marrying the sweet, fruitiness of blueberries to the savory spicy notes all good salsas should have, and that ingredient (drumroll please) was fennel. Specifically sautéed fennel, which has an onion-like texture and a lovely deep flavor.

So off to the market I went, eager to test out my theory. I thinly sliced my freshly-purchased fennel, sautéed it in some olive oil for 10 minutes or so (stirring frequently to promote caramelization as opposed to frying) and pulsed it up in a food processor with some jalapeño and cilantro. After seasoning with salt and lime, I sampled a bit. Yum! I almost wanted to eat it then and there – blueberries be damned – because it was really tasty! But delayed gratification is supposedly the mark of intelligence, so in went the berries. And voila! Blueberry-fennel salsa complete; snacking commencing in T minus…and that’s as far as my countdown got before my mouth was full of chips and salsa.

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