The Smiling Onion

Vegetarian and Gluten-free Cooking

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Oyster Mushroom & Edamame Tacos

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Pandemic life has caused a lot of us to pick up new hobbies – whether it’s sourdough or zoom ballroom. While my day job keeps me pretty busy (hence the less frequent blog posts), one pandemic activity my husband and I have turned to time and again is taco making. As a result, we’re now complete tortilla snobs – casually making our own tortillas whenever the mood strikes. And the mood strikes often – because my husband is taco OBSESSED.

I’m beginning to share this obsession. There’s something uniquely satisfying about biting into a soft, hot tortilla filled to the brim with whatever savory goodness the day calls for. And you can really put anything in a taco. I’ve used Indian-inspired spiced potatoes topped with grated cheddar and sour cream, leftover tofu scramble with cilantro and fresh tomatoes, simple scrambled eggs with goat cheese and scallions – and of course, one of my favorites – these brussels sprouts tacos with spicy crema and feta. However, I recently came up with a new combo that might just be my new favorite: oyster mushrooms and edamame.

Similar to the brussels sprouts tacos mentioned above, these tacos have very few ingredients but the secret is in the way you cook them. You’ll use a large skillet so that everything browns and develops incredible flavor compounds, resulting in a filling  so good that it’s VERY difficult not to eat it all up before it’s in your tortillas. If you choose to leave these vegan, you won’t miss the cheese. That said, though not imperative, I *do* think a fried egg and a very light sprinkling of feta add to the magic.

If you’re looking for a special something on Valentine’s Day, I highly recommend giving these tacos a try. They are sumptuous and meaty, and super cute to boot! They would be perfect as part of a romantic, small plates style meal (one of my preferred ways to eat!) as they make just enough for one or two servings. Plus, according to the internet, mushrooms are an aphrodisiac, making these tacos even more Valentine’s Day appropriate. (Of course, soy doesn’t exactly fit into the aphrodisiac camp, but we’ll just overlook that tiny detail.) Also – if you’ve never made tortillas before – that’s either a great labor of love you can undertake yourself or a super fun activity to try with your special someone(s).

A few notes about making tortillas:

-There are a million tortilla making recipes. We just use the one on the back of the Organic Masa flour package from Bob’s Red Mill. BUT…we don’t let it sit for an hour, as they suggest. Just knead it until it seems like a good consistency and get pressing already!

-When we were researching tortilla making best practices, we came across a tip for fluffy tortillas: heat your skillet, add a tortilla, and let it sit for just 10 seconds or so. Flip it, cook until the second side is done, and then flip it back onto the first side to finish cooking. I’m pretty sure we got that tip from this page, which also has fantastically detailed instructions that tell you everything you ever wanted to know about tortilla making.

-I don’t mean to imply that you have to make your own tortillas! You can absolutely use store-bought corn tortillas for these tacos and they will be DELICIOUS! Seriously, you don’t even have to put the filling in a taco if you don’t want to – it’s SOOO yummy!

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Kabocha & Tofu Stew

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You know what sounds better than braving the New York restaurant scene on Valentine’s Day? Staying in and eating comfort food. And yes, I know that sometimes means nachos or fries or pizza, but with the crazy January we’ve had here in the U.S., I’ve been craving something a bit more nourishing.

After all, Valentine’s Day is about taking time out to appreciate those you love and giving them a little extra care and attention. That could be friends, a partner/partners, or even yourself. So in my book, cooking a nourishing (and incredibly tasty) meal is a great way to celebrate. And if you want to break out the ice-cream or alcohol later in the night, I won’t judge.

This stew will make your apartment smell insanely amazing. First, we fry some tofu with chives and ginger (a meal in itself!), then it gets simmered with kabocha, tamari, thyme, and cumin. Finally, we fold in some kale, add some more seasoning, and pop in some kabocha chunks to bite into (the first ones become part of the stewy sauce!). The result is a velvety, umami-laden sauce with a nice gingery punch, chunks of nutty kabocha and meaty tofu sprinkled throughout, and beautiful, tender greens to add to the love. Serve it with your favorite grain, or enjoy it on its own.

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Swiss Chard & Feta Hearts with Spicy Marinara

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While I typically go the sweet route for Valentine’s Day (check out my matcha custard, red velvet pancakes, and chocolate-whiskey sandwich cookies from years past), I decided a savory treat was in order this year. Something elegant – yet hearty – with plenty of Valentine’s Day symbolism. That meant breaking out the heart molds, whipping up a spicy marinara, and choosing red chard over green.

In addition to possessing beautiful, Valentine’s Day-appropriate stems, red chard happens to pair beautifully with feta, lemon, dill, and the other Mediterranean flavors at play here. In fact, these hearts are kind of like a Greek twist on risotto cakes, but made with millet instead of rice, and much easier to put together. (No need to actually make risotto!)  They are quite nice on their own and even more romantic with the marinara.

No heart mold? No problem. Just use your hands to make round cakes (patties) instead. If you find yourself missing the heart element, you can always dip your finger into the marinara and finger paint a heart or two on your serving plate. Perhaps your special someone will want to help decorate too!

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Red Velvet Pancakes (Baked!)

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Red velvet cake is often an appalling maroon color that can really only be achieved with copious amounts of red food coloring – not that appetizing. However, this iteration of red velvet apparently only surfaced during the Great Depression, when an extract company created a food coloring-heavy recipe in an attempt to boost sales. Before that, it was a much more natural color, with the “velvet” term referring to the smooth texture. In fact, the key characteristics of red velvet are buttermilk, cocoa, and vinegar – not red dye.

Be that as it may, there is something luscious about the color red, especially when Valentine’s Day is coming up. So I decided to give these pancakes a slightly redder tint with sustainably-harvested red palm oil, a buttery-tasting oil with a lovely hue that is high in Vitamins A and E. This also has the added benefit of making them dairy-free!

Finally, just in case you wanted to make these for a Valentine’s Day breakfast, I wanted to give you a recipe that didn’t leave you slaving over the stove frying pancakes on a weekday morning. Thus, the batter for these pancakes is actually made the night before and is simply poured out onto a sheet tray and baked the next morning. You can then use your favorite cookie cutters to make pretty little dainty pancakes, that – slathered with a “red velvet butter” and fresh strawberries – make for an elegant breakfast.

And yet, despite their elegance, there’s a heartiness about these too. They are made with whole grains like teff and sorghum that will give you an excellent morning boost.

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Matcha Custard

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I didn’t realize until recently how fitting it would be to make custard for Valentine’s Day. Not because it’s insanely delicious (though there’s definitely that) or because you can serve it in cute little dishes (though there’s that too.) But because, to make custard properly, you really need to exhibit some of your best relationship skills.

So, in the spirit of Valentine’s Day, here are three relationship skills/lessons told through the experience of making custard. (Okay, I may have a bit of Dear Abby envy. This was way too much fun!)

Skill 1: Patience

Traditional custard is a mixture of milk and eggs, slowly thickened over a low flame. And the key word here is slow. If you get sick of waiting for it to thicken and raise the heat too high, your eggs will start to curdle, which means you’ll get chunks of cooked egg in your custard. The same thing will happen if you add the hot milk to your beaten eggs too aggressively. The trick is patience: add just a little at first; then once the egg has grown accustomed to the presence of the milk, you’ll start to drizzle in the rest. You then get to warm up the mixture – again, gradually and patiently on the stove, making sure to give it lots of love and attention (aka stirring) so nothing curdles.

Relationship Lesson:If you try to make an abrupt change without making sure your partner is on board, the relationship is likely to curdle. Best practice is to make changes and suggest improvements gradually, making sure your partner feels loved and supported (keep stirring that egg mixture!) throughout the process.

Skill 2: Trust

There is usually a point in the custard making process where I’m positive something has gone wrong. Custard sometimes takes its sweet time to thicken, and gives almost zero indication that it will thicken until it does. During those painful minutes when it looks like nothing is going to happen and I’m going to be left with a pot of liquid, remembering that I’ve been in this boat before and  always come out on top is key. Otherwise, I might be tempted to self-destructively turn up the heat or just drink the liquid then and there. I have to remember that the custard has always thickened in the end – no matter how much it looks like it won’t – and trust that this time won’t be any different.

Relationship Lesson: In a relationship built on trust, you always give your partner the benefit of the doubt. There will be times when you’ll question whether or not he/she has your back. When this happens, avoid getting worked up before you have all the information, since turning up the heat too fast could trigger exactly what you’re trying to avoid. Instead, trust your partner and give him/her time to explain before losing your cool. 

Skill 3: Experimentation

Maybe things do go awry in your custard-making process. The first time I made this matcha custard, it tasted great but had a drab, very unappealing color that just didn’t cut it. I normally outright refuse to put color in anything, but it occurred to me that maybe I could find a natural green food coloring that would work. I ended up finding this recipe, which suggested boiling spinach and then blending until completely smooth. I was a little bit nervous: Would it be too subtle? Too bright? Would it taste spinachy? (The recipe promised it wouldn’t, but I had my doubts.) Thankfully, I took the plunge, and it came out perfectly. No spinach remained after blending – it was completely liquid – and a couple tablespoons yielded the perfect muted green color. Oh, and there was no spinachy taste, whatsoever.

Relationship Lesson: It can be scary to try new things, especially if your relationship is already on the rocks. But sometimes breaking routine can be just what you need to lift you out of the doldrums and into the light. Don’t be afraid to give your relationship that little pop of color it was missing: you’ll be glad you did. 

Now that we’ve all learned soooo much, I think we deserve some custard, no?

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Cinnamon Sugar Sandwich Cookies with Chocolate-Whiskey Cream

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Do I even need to write this post? Doesn’t the title say it all?

Okay, fine.

Three days before Valentine’s Day, I realized I would be remiss if I didn’t post a delicious treat for you to make for your honey (or your mom, cat, best friend, self … whoever you are planning to spend Valentine’s Day with this year!) Disclaimer: Please don’t actually feed these to your cat; that would be pretty dangerous. Anyway, I could probably have whipped up a nice pudding, or mousse, even a brownie…and it would have been fairly straightforward and probably wouldn’t have taken me two days to create, photograph, and post. But…for some reason, I had my heart set on a sandwich cookie. Not just any sandwich cookie – a grain-free, dairy-free sandwich cookie with a chocolate-whiskey filling. (I’m very sorry, vegans, this cookie does have 1 egg in it and I didn’t have time to try subbing it with a flax egg. In the process of developing these cookies, however, I did come up with a delicious 5-ingredient vegan cinnamon lace cookie that I will be posting soon!)

Why did I have my heart set on a grain-free, dairy-free sandwich cookie with a chocolate-whiskey filling? Who knows. Possibly it was a dream I had (food is a main character in the vast majority of my dreams), or maybe I liked the romantic notion sandwich cookies suggest – two halves making a whole, each one bringing a little bit of delicious (aka chocolate-whiskey cream) to the relationship, all that sentimental dribble.

In any case, I knew what I wanted to make, and even though I started this process with only three days between me and Vday, the sandwich cookie gods were with me!

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