The Smiling Onion

Vegetarian and Gluten-free Cooking

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Swiss Chard & Feta Hearts with Spicy Marinara

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While I typically go the sweet route for Valentine’s Day (check out my matcha custard, red velvet pancakes, and chocolate-whiskey sandwich cookies from years past), I decided a savory treat was in order this year. Something elegant – yet hearty – with plenty of Valentine’s Day symbolism. That meant breaking out the heart molds, whipping up a spicy marinara, and choosing red chard over green.

In addition to possessing beautiful, Valentine’s Day-appropriate stems, red chard happens to pair beautifully with feta, lemon, dill, and the other Mediterranean flavors at play here. In fact, these hearts are kind of like a Greek twist on risotto cakes, but made with millet instead of rice, and much easier to put together. (No need to actually make risotto!)  They are quite nice on their own and even more romantic with the marinara.

No heart mold? No problem. Just use your hands to make round cakes (patties) instead. If you find yourself missing the heart element, you can always dip your finger into the marinara and finger paint a heart or two on your serving plate. Perhaps your special someone will want to help decorate too!

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Market Cucumbers with Ras El Hanout, Lime, and Mint

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One of the best things about eating in the summer months – especially August – is the sheer bounty of summer produce available. Often, picking the freshest produce you can find and treating it gently yields some of the most delicious eating; as an added benefit, these produce-highlighting dishes are generally simple to prepare. Small plates restaurants in New York LOVE this strategy – they know their customers are suckers for fresh produce that tastes amazing and that diners are willing to shell out the big bucks for what is really just a plate of vegetables with some strategic seasoning and a fancy name.

Now I fall for this just as much as the next person – who doesn’t love veggie-centric, small plates dining? And really, who cares how much effort it took as long as it tastes amazing? But I’m also beginning to be a bit sticker-shocked by some of the small plates (sometimes tiny plates!) and big prices attached to the simplest of dishes. Especially when it’s so easy to create our own delicious, seasonal small plates with a simple trip to the Greenmarket, a bit of creativity, and a subtle hand. The trick here is not to overdo.

It’s imperative, of course, to start with super fresh, sun-kissed, juicy cucumbers straight from the garden, farmstand, or greenmarket. Younger, tender cukes are preferable to older, bigger ones – you don’t want the peels to be super tough. A sprinkle of good quality sea salt helps the cucumbers sing; the ras el hanout (a Morrocan seasoning blend, described in more detail below) gives them that extra special something. Add in a splash of acidity (fresh lime juice) and a bit of very thinly shaved fresh mint and scallion, and you’ve got yourself a complete dish.

So what exactly is ras el hanout, you ask? Well, every blend is slightly different, but it normally consists of warming spices mixed with coriander and turmeric. If you are familiar with garam masala, the flavor is similar, but I would describe ras el hanout as having a more savory quality (less clove and cinnamon heavy). I buy the Frontier brand, which consists of coriander,  turmeric, cardamom, sea salt,  black pepper, clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg. I love it in deviled eggs (for a North African twist), in my morning porridge, or mixed into yogurt and drizzled over a middle-eastern style lettuce wrap. In the cooler months, it’s also great for stews and soups!

Now on to these cucumbers…

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Moroccan Quinoa with Preserved Lemon

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I designed this quinoa with Passover in mind, but it may very well become a staple in our household. Here are three reasons why:

1. It’s incredibly flavorful

Simmered with Moroccan spices like cumin, turmeric, allspice, and cinnamon, a drop of olive oil, and a hefty dose of preserved lemon (if you haven’t tried this, you are in for a treat!) this quinoa tastes even better than it smells.

2. It’s pleasing on the eyes

Forget your mountain vistas and city skylines…instead,  feast your eyes on lovely mounds of beautiful golden pearls, flecked with bits of bright red pepper, dark succulent raisins, vibrant green cilantro, and whimsically geometric walnuts. (Too much? Just practicing my storytelling for the seder…but seriously, my photos really don’t do this dish justice. One of these days, I’ll get an actual camera and stop taking photos on my phone!)

3. It’s easy to make and can be served hot or cold

Aside from measuring the spices, there’s not much you have to do here. Put the quinoa in a pot with the spices and lemon, set your timer, and walk away. In 18 minutes or so, you’ll have the most luscious, flavorful side dish all ready to go. You can eat it steaming hot right from the pot (even without any of the mix-ins) or, as in this recipe, spread it out to cool slightly before tossing it with the red pepper, walnuts, raisins, and cilantro. Once it’s cooled completely, store it in an airtight container in the fridge and serve cold.

So…ready, set, QUINOA!

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Shakshuka

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There was a time in my life when I ate shakshuka on an almost daily basis. The Shuka Truck (now sadly closed) used to park very close to my office and was one of my frequent lunch spots. But before I wax poetic about shakshuka, let me just make sure everyone knows what it is: a delicious, middle-eastern/North-African dish composed of eggs cooked in a spicy tomato sauce.

Because shakshuka is eaten in so many parts of the world, there are many different varieties. This also means that – like tomato sauce in general – it is highly customizable. The tomato element can be spicy, smoky, tangy, spiked with warming Middle-eastern spices like cumin/paprika, or laced with fresh herbs like parsley and basil. Single servings of shakshuka are also a great way to use up leftover tomato sauce – just sauté some chives in olive oil, add your sauce, spice it up if you wish, and then crack some eggs into it!

The version below is simple and delicious – the tomato sauce base falls on the tangy end of the spectrum and uses Italian spices. In addition to making a great base for my shakshuka, this is the sauce I use for spaghetti dinners and pizza nights. While I call for fire-roasted tomatoes, there is no smokiness – the fire-roasting simply helps give this sauce plenty of zest while keeping it free of onion and garlic. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do!

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Pan-Grilled Fairy Tale Eggplant with Feta, Honey, and Tarragon

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Once upon a time, a pound of cute little purple and white striped eggplant lived in a lovely garden with their father, a big purple Italian eggplant named Giuseppe, and their mother, a Japanese white eggplant named Mari. Life was pretty good – they were all given plenty to eat and drink and the compost in their part of town was utterly delicious.

One day, one of the purple and white striped eggplants overheard the cherry tomatoes talking amongst themselves. “It was incredible!” said a cherry tomato named Steve. “I never dreamed the world was so large!” “Oh, shut up, Steve,” said Marcus, an elderly tomato who was already starting to shrivel. “You have no business spreading lies around the garden. We all know you are making this up – I mean, you couldn’t roll two feet without getting stepped on, let alone all the way to Manhattan.” “Oh yes, I can,” retorted Steve. “I’ll prove it to you! Tomorrow, I’m going to the Union Square Greenmarket and I’m going to purchase an herb for my mother to wear – basil is all the rage these days!”

The little purple and white striped eggplant could hardly believe his ears. Leaving the garden? Why would anyone want to do that, he wondered to himself. But that night, he couldn’t sleep. Suddenly, he began to see the wisdom in what Steve had been saying. What was he doing, spending his whole life in one tiny corner of the world? He had to get out there. He had to take risks. Shaking his brothers and sisters awake, he told them what he had overheard. “Let’s go to Manhattan!” he said. “Steve already knows how to get there – all we have to do is follow him!”

And so it was decided. Bright and early the next morning, the pound of little purple and white striped eggplant set off, led by Steve, the cherry tomato. Unfortunately, the fairy tale these eggplants were born into was of the Brother’s Grimm variety, and so while Steve would miraculously survive to teach Marcus an important lesson about truth (namely, that he was telling it) that pound of purple and white striped eggplants was doomed. It would see the world – that was something – but then it would be purchased by a hungry female giant named Alana, grilled alive, and eaten.

But oh, in this fairy tale, deliciousness would prevail. Because young, tender, fairy tale eggplants quickly grilled in a cast iron skillet, sprinkled with a feta-tarragon mixture, and finished with honey and sherry vinegar are infinitely more delicious than poisoned apples, stale gingerbread houses, or magic beans (which to the best of my knowledge nobody even ate, but still). They are so supremely delicious, in fact, that you might be okay with fighting a hungry giant or slaying a fire-breathing dragon just to get your hands on them.

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Trio of Dips

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Why is dipping food into other food so much fun?!  If I like the dipping instrument and the dipping matter, I could probably be completely content for hours on end just taking a chip, dipping it into something creamy, taking a carrot, dipping it into something spicy, taking a strawberry, dipping it into a pool of melted chocolate … whoever invented dipping was seriously a genius.

And dips are laughably easy to make, too. The creamy harissa one in this post, for example, is as simple as stirring together harissa and yogurt, with maybe a bit of mayo thrown in there for good measure. That’s it! And it tastes four times as good as a creamy harissa dip you might purchase at the store – complete with a bunch of “dehydrated milk powder” and other random ingredients they have to throw in there so it doesn’t go bad while it’s waiting to be purchased. Making dips at home is definitely the way to go – both in terms of quality and taste and in terms of your wallet. (Extra points if you decide to make your own harissa too – I buy a really good brand that’s cost effective and doesn’t have any yuck ingredients in it so I just used that.)

How do you make a fabulous dip? Easy. Just think about what ingredients might go well together, then mix ’em up. If your dip doesn’t quite pop, you might need to add some acid (lemon, lime, vinegar, etc.) and if it doesn’t taste quite balanced, try adding a tiny bit of sweetener (honey, maple syrup, agave, etc.) If you want your dip to be creamy, you can use sour cream, mayo, yogurt, avocado, hemp seeds, etc. For spice, throw in some cayenne or some kind of spice paste (like harissa or Asian chili paste). Spicy components go great with creamy or sweet elements, and sweet components go great with sour ones. Experiment and have fun!

To get you started, today I’m sharing a trio of dips that would be perfect to take with you on a Father’s Day picnic  – or any other kind of picnic – or to eat on your front porch, balcony, etc. We’ve got the aforementioned spicy, creamy harissa dip; a savory, protein-packed avocado-hemp dip; and a deliciously refreshing mango-poblano. That last one has some fresh tomatillo, basil, lime, and cumin in it as well and is the perfect counterpart to the savory avocado and spicy harissa.

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16 Passover Recipes

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Passover is around the corner! That means matzoh ball soup, charoset, hard boiled eggs, horseradish, tzimmes, and a whole lot of other Passover staples if you happen to be attending or hosting a seder this year. In fact, planning what to eat at a seder is almost never difficult – there are so many traditional Passover dishes! What can be hard for most of us, however, is figuring out what to eat after the Seder, when you are sick of the staples yet still have almost a week left of restricted eating.

Since I’m gluten-free year round and happen to also follow Sephardic Passover (this means beans and grains are A-okay), the basic change to my diet is restricting oats. Which isn’t super difficult. However, many of my friends follow Ashkenazi Passover, which is much more restrictive – no grains or legumes at all (though quinoa is okay), no poppy seeds, sunflower seeds, or sesame seeds…the list goes on for a while. And it can be difficult if you are vegetarian.

So, instead of giving you yet another version of Matzoh Ball Soup (though I have a pretty great idea for one and will probably post it next year), I’ve decided to list for you all of the delicious and wonderful things you can eat right from this blog even if you follow a strict Ashkenazi style Pesach. (If you follow Sephardic Passover, you can pretty much eat anything on this blog that doesn’t contain oats!)

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Warm Mushroom Salad

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By “Warm Mushroom Salad,” I really mean “Warm Mushroom Salad with Sweet Tahini Drizzle, Fresh Parsley, and Feta Cheese.” While that’s a bit lengthy for a title, it is just right for a salad!

The way I prepared the mushrooms for this salad is probably my new favorite way to prepare mushrooms, period. They are meaty, juicy, tender, buttery, and oh so flavorful! Add in the freshness of the parsley and the tanginess of the feta and you’ve got a true winner. However, I think it is actually the sweet tahini drizzle (sesame and honey) that takes this dish over the top. The flavors here have an intensity, earthiness, and brightness that left me wondering why people don’t combine mushrooms and honey more often.

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Middle Eastern Shake

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When it comes to shakes, I’m a pretty picky eater … er… drinker? In my opinion, a good shake must be creamy, smooth, rich, luscious, full-bodied, sweet but not sweet enough to cause a sugar rush, and most importantly, NOT ICY. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve experienced severe buyer’s remorse after shelling out good $$ (shakes are expensive!!) only to realize my “cacao banana power shake” (or some variation thereof) is half ice and half store-bought almond milk with maybe a couple teaspoons of cocoa powder and a tiny piece of banana. Sadness! Anger! Ice! So. Much. Ice.

While I’ll occasionally throw one or two cubes of ice in a shake I make myself (usually because I have a cat shaped ice cube tray and the kitty ice cubes are so darn cute that I can put aside my ice hatred and remember that all things can be good in moderation) I generally find that if all my ingredients are cold, shakes do not need ice at all. And I much prefer them creamy and rich to cold and watery. This Middle Eastern Shake is no exception – it could probably be eaten as a pudding if you’re into that. Personally, I prefer to consume it in shake form (I mean, for one thing, you get more of it: it is so much more socially acceptable to consume a full glass of shake than a full glass of pudding.)  [Read more…]

Roasted Broccoli with Creamy Hemp Seed Dressing

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Have you tried hemp seeds yet? They are a staple in my kitchen! Touted for their health benefits (just 3 tablespoons of these guys will give you a walloping 10 grams of protein and they also happen to contain nearly the perfect ratio of Omega 3 to Omega 6), these little seeds are great in salads, soups, and sauces. They are also a wonderful vegan creamifier. (Yes, I think I made that word up because it’s not in the dictionary.) In case it’s not apparent, let me define it for you:

Creamifier, n.  A substance that can be used to make something creamy. Example Sentence: Some non-vegan creamifiers are milk, yogurt, and sour cream, while some vegan creamifiers are hemp seeds, tofu, tahini, and nuts.

Now that we’ve all learned a new (fake) word, let me tell you about this dressing.  [Read more…]