One of the best things about eating in the summer months – especially August – is the sheer bounty of summer produce available. Often, picking the freshest produce you can find and treating it gently yields some of the most delicious eating; as an added benefit, these produce-highlighting dishes are generally simple to prepare. Small plates restaurants in New York LOVE this strategy – they know their customers are suckers for fresh produce that tastes amazing and that diners are willing to shell out the big bucks for what is really just a plate of vegetables with some strategic seasoning and a fancy name.
Now I fall for this just as much as the next person – who doesn’t love veggie-centric, small plates dining? And really, who cares how much effort it took as long as it tastes amazing? But I’m also beginning to be a bit sticker-shocked by some of the small plates (sometimes tiny plates!) and big prices attached to the simplest of dishes. Especially when it’s so easy to create our own delicious, seasonal small plates with a simple trip to the Greenmarket, a bit of creativity, and a subtle hand. The trick here is not to overdo.
It’s imperative, of course, to start with super fresh, sun-kissed, juicy cucumbers straight from the garden, farmstand, or greenmarket. Younger, tender cukes are preferable to older, bigger ones – you don’t want the peels to be super tough. A sprinkle of good quality sea salt helps the cucumbers sing; the ras el hanout (a Morrocan seasoning blend, described in more detail below) gives them that extra special something. Add in a splash of acidity (fresh lime juice) and a bit of very thinly shaved fresh mint and scallion, and you’ve got yourself a complete dish.
So what exactly is ras el hanout, you ask? Well, every blend is slightly different, but it normally consists of warming spices mixed with coriander and turmeric. If you are familiar with garam masala, the flavor is similar, but I would describe ras el hanout as having a more savory quality (less clove and cinnamon heavy). I buy the Frontier brand, which consists of coriander, turmeric, cardamom, sea salt, black pepper, clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg. I love it in deviled eggs (for a North African twist), in my morning porridge, or mixed into yogurt and drizzled over a middle-eastern style lettuce wrap. In the cooler months, it’s also great for stews and soups!
Now on to these cucumbers…